I was born in Dublin, right in the city centre, at the oldest maternity hospital in Europe. It has a grand half-moon colonnade that no-one walks in anymore; it’s closed off in case homeless people sleep under its porch. Its modern entrance faces the local Sinn Féin shop with all its nonsensical Republican merchandise, and beside it the offices of the Irish Migrant Rights Council. The old trying to stay new, and the new trying to get settled in the old. The old parliament at College Green, dissolved in 1801 partly because of Lord Edward Fitzgerald’s 1798 rebellion, became a bank, and when Ireland eventually got its own parliament again in 1922, it was based in the townhouse built by Lord Fitzgerald’s father. I’m pretty sure the son would have appreciated that.
Greater Dublin has one of the largest urban sprawls outside of Los Angeles, but the city centre is quite small, very walkable, and full of variety. It has all the buzz of a capital city, but no skyscrapers, so the sky – blue or cloudy or pissing rain – is never far away. No really: the tallest building in Dublin city is Liberty Hall (seen here all animated for the Dublin Theatre Festival).
It’s a very old city – official founding date 988 C.E., thank you Vikings – but there’s still new places to discover in it. Twenty years ago, Temple Bar was a bus depot; now it’s full of pubs and restaurants, art galleries, theatres and buskers. (And stag and hen parties, but the less said about them the better). Ten years ago, the Docklands was a post-industrial wasteland; now it’s the financial centre of the city, has a new college, apartments, and it’s still a building site. Parts of the old city wall are still standing; there are still Viking bodies under the streets; the Georgian Anglo-Irish added grand squares and walkways but the medieval city still pops up now and again in some places like the old tower in Dublin Castle or the ruined chapel at Christchurch. You can always find little bits of green in the city; St. Stephen’s Green, the Garden of Remembrance, the Iveagh Gardens, or somewhere like this –>

It’s home to numerous distinct accents – some of them nicer than others. My grandmother’s way of speaking “and says I to her, says I…” is much gentler on the ear than my cousin’s “loike, oh my god, I was loike SO kacking it”. You can get all your government documents trí Ghaeilge on Molesworth St., Irish lessons at Gael Linn or visit the Irish-language pub on Harcourt St., but try asking for a drink as Gaeilge in any other pub in Dublin and it’s anyone’s bet what you’ll get.
Last night, my friends and I went to watch the Geminid meteor shower. Within 15 minutes from my house, we were in the mountains, watching the twinkling lights of the city; 15 minutes after that along tiny country roads bordered by ditches, we were in the bogland with only some slightly scared sheep for company. Yet, we could see the lighthouse on the coast reflecting off the clouds. It’s rare that there’s a sunny, warm day here, warm enough for the beach, but when there is, you’ll find Dubliners roasting themselves, all packed on the beach together.

I’ve lived in the same house in the suburbs all my life – all through school and university and I’m pretty much here til I can get a job that pays enough to let me pay rent. With the industry I want to work in, I wouldn’t be holding my breath. I’ve lived in the U.S., and in Australia, and I was still happy to come home. There’s something about the city; there’s always something going on, something to do, some little quirk on the streets to make you stop and think “that’s beautiful”.

So, if you ever feel like visiting: I’m going to say it’s worth it. But I am biased:)
All the pictures in this post weren’t taken specially for it, but some more shots of the city can be seen in my Flickr, “Dublin” set.
Thanks for visiting.